After the minimalist breakfast which we were able to have at the café down the road, we walked straight up the main road of the area towards the city’s castle called Castel Nuovo.
On the way to the terminus for the Hop On/Hop Off Bus behind the castle, we passed a most unusual sculpture, in the Piazza Municipio, called Venus of the Rags by Michelangelo Pistoletto born in 1933. It is the reconstructed sculpture due to the original, created in 1967 and placed in this piazza on 28 June 2023, having been set alight. It is an emblem of the Poor Art movement which rejects traditional art in favour of the use of materials deemed anti-artistic and humble.
We chose to ride the Red Route first which went through the centre of the city. Unfortunately, we only got off at some of the stops as Stop 1 was the terminus, Stops 3 & 4 were museums which, we were told, each needed a minimum of an hour for a satisfactory visit and the bus was unable to stop at any of the final 3 as there had been an accident which caused a major traffic jam. The delay was such that buses were catching up with each other instead of having a 20-30 minute gap between them.
Stop 2 was the Piazza del Gesù Nuovo with a large church of the same name. This church has a very interesting history. It was originally built as a palace for Roberto Sanseverino, Prince of Salermo in 1470. Its façade is made of ashlar which is masonry made of large square-cut stones, used as a facing on walls of brick or stone rubble. The ashlar blocks on the church feature mysterious geometric symbols but their meanings are unknown and a cause of much speculation and discussion. In 1584, the palace was purchased by the Jesuits who transformed it into a church, retaining the ashlar façade. The inside of the church was stunning. The walls and ceiling were covered in magnificent paintings and friezes. Whenever we see these churches built with such love and expertise we stand in awe.
In the centre of the piazza was a 22m high obelisk of the Guglia dell’Immacolata, designed and erected by Giuseppe Genuino between 1747 & 1750 on the site of a previous equestrian sculpture dedicated to Philip V. It is covered with marble decorations that make it one of the greatest examples of Baroque sculpture in Naples. On 8 December each year, a fireman climbs right to the top to place a wreath on the head of the Virgin Mary.
One of Genuino’s best works can be found inside above the main door of the church. Created in 1725, it depicts three angels driving the Minister of Syria, Heliodors, out of the Temple of Jerusalem.
At Stop 5, called Vittoria (Victory) Park, there were a lot of statues and, what was described as a beautiful park but, sadly, was unkempt. We took a few photos and then decided to move on as there was no point in walking through the park. It took us while to orientate ourselves as we had wandered all around while taking photos and the bus stop didn’t have a sign. A rather surly policeman finally pointed us in the right direction just as the bus arrived.
The final Stop, on the Red Route, where we could alight was the place of the tombs of Virgil and another Italian poet, Leopardi, in the Vergiliano Park. Also, in the park beside Leopardi’s tomb is the Crypta Neapolitana, constructed in the 1st century BC. What we were not told, before getting off the bus, was that the park was closed on a Tuesday and so we were unable to see these 3 hidden gems of history. From what I have read, Virgil’s tomb is within a large mausoleum and Leopardi’s, inside a cave. The only thing we did see at this stop was a dry fountain. While waiting for the next bus we crossed the road to a lovely fruit shop where we purchased some of the best fruit we have had and ate it for our lunch.
It was soon thereafter that we came upon the accident which was causing a major traffic jam making it impossible to stop and see anything at stops 7-9 and we eventually arrived back at the terminus. Here we were able to board the Blue Route bus which took us along the waterfront and proved to be much more interesting. We got off at a number of the 12 stops to take photos and enjoy some beautiful scenery.
One of the first places we saw was a castle just into the Gulf of Naples called the Castel dell’Ovo which means Egg’s Castle. This was because there is a legend that Virgil hid a magic egg in the dungeon which would protect the power of the castle. It was also known as the ‘Keeper of the Gulf’.
Another stop was at Port’Alba where the first thing one notices is the stalls and stalls of books of every kind. We were totally fascinated. There were magazines, old books, new books, albums and post cards. At the back of the square was a gate into the Mediterranean Diagon Alley with restaurants, jewellery shops and mementoes. This leads through to the Piazza Dante which was opened in 1625.
Our final stop was at the top of one of the highest hills in Naples from which we enjoyed some spectacular views. On one side we could see a small chapel, which appeared to be in the back yard of a home and perched on the hillside.
The 2 of us walked down the road to take a further look at the views of the Gulf of Naples and it was worth every minute. From there we had a clear view of Mt Vesuvius with clouds covering its peak.
On the way back to the terminus we passed another interesting sculpture made up of 4 distinct sides. Unfortunately, they didn’t tell us anything about it on the bus commentary and I have been unable to find anything on the internet. If anyone recognises it, please educate us.
We walked back to our accommodation past the castle and after a short rest and cuppa, we found out where to find a supermarket, in the opposite direction to which we had walked before and purchased some lovely Italian food for supper.
